Falling for Norway

11:21am Saturday 7th June 2008

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THE first Vikings I remember seeing had American accents.

Kirk Douglas and Tony Curtis battled it out in the 1958 movie as it beamed into our living room from an old Baird television in the 1960s.

As the images of longships and fjords flickered across the 19-inch screen, the magnificent Nordic scenery looked absolutely breathtaking - even if it was in black and white.

In the days before Hollywood, the time when genuine Vikings were in the big picture, warring Norsemen toasted victories by drinking ale from the skulls of beaten foes. Skal is Norwegian for "cheers". Three giant swords set in stone now mark the spot where King Harald The Fairhead united the country's warring tribes after victory in the Battle of Hafrsfjord, in 872.

Avaldsnes, on the strait between Karmoy and Haugesund, is regarded as Norway's birthplace and the seat of ancient kings.

For more than 3,000 years, Norse chieftains levied tolls on ships passing through the narrow sound - the Nordvegen, or North Way, hence Norway.

Today, the atmospheric 13th century St Olav's Church stands sentinel above Karmsundet Sound and the old Viking settlement of Bukkoy.

Further along the coast is the old herring fishing community of Skudeneshavn. This historic tall ships town is one of the best preserved in the country where 125 restored houses and 100 sailors' cottages cluster around the pretty waterside setting.

At 179 kilometres, Hardangerfjord is the second longest fjord in Norway. The blue-green waters plunge to 800 metres at its deepest point. This area is known as the Orchard of Norway, with its mild Gulf Stream climate ideal for growing fruit such as cherries, apples, pears, plums and berries.

English Cistercian monks introduced fruit growing to the region in the 13th century. I recommend a stop-off at the Steinsto Fruitfarm to stock up.

Or perhaps halt for tea at the Ullensvang Hotel, at Loftus, where the composer Edvard Grieg sought inspiration for his haunting music from the stupendous scenery. His old summer house stands in the "back garden" of the hotel.

Take a walk up to - and under - one of the most famous and photographed waterfalls in the country at Steinsdalsfossen. Marvel at this impressive cascade of water as it tumbles down the mountainside.

The world heritage city of Bergen is the capital of western Norway. This colourful city surrounded by mountains is a buzzing and lively port.

The wonderful medieval wharf houses by the harbour at Bryggen have been restored to their former glory and the district is peppered with bars and cafés where true "Bergansers" tuck into fish cakes and spicy "shilling buns".

A ride on the Floibanen Funicular is a must to take in a great view of the city from the top of Mount Floyen.

Grieg's old house is just outside the city at Troldhaugen - the Hill Of The Trolls. The pretty building with its 1907 interior is perched high above Lake Nordal and is now a museum to the musical genius. The great composer and his wife are buried nearby in a cliffside vault.

Norwegians are justly proud of their heritage and the Stavanger region, along with Liverpool in the UK, has this year been chosen as the European Capital of Culture.

Wooden wharfside buildings huddle around the waterfront in this attractive port - the city has the largest concentration of wood-built houses in Europe. Take a stroll around Gamle Stavanger, the old town, or drink beer at a waterside café.

The fjord scenery of Norway is spectacular and there is so much to see and do, whether you are looking for an active holiday such as hiking, biking or skiing, or if you want to let somebody else do the work by taking a coach tour.

But remember, the natives no longer quaff ale from the cranial cavities of foreign foes - so don't be afraid to pay a visit. Skal!

Fact file

Richard travelled as a guest of the Coach Tourism Council (CTC), DFDS Ferries and Fjord Norway. The CTC (www.coachtourismcouncil.co.uk) promotes tours and holidays by coach on behalf of more than 150 coach operators from across the UK. They include Eddie Brown Tours of Boroughbridge (www.eddiebrowntours.com 01423 321246) which has a four-day Norway mini-cruise with DFDS visiting Bergen including a scenic drive through the Western Fjords to Stavanger, costing from £209 per person. A longer eight-day to the Sognefjord region costs £789pp.