Breezy times in Lytham

11:54am Saturday 14th June 2008

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I SPOTTED the sign from across the street: "Exhibition. Admission free."

Wandering over for a closer look, I imagined watercolours of tiny boats on a brilliant blue sea or garish, Mediterranean landscapes in vivid and hot colours, all rendered by a shaky amateur hand. At any rate, somewhere to wile away half an hour on this Saturday afternoon of our late-spring break in Lytham, sister resort to nearby St Anne's and the bigger and brasher Blackpool, a few miles away.

Then I spotted the A-board by the door. It read: "Les Dawson - a tribute in pictures."

"Oh no! If you think I'm going in there, you can think again," spluttered my wife, Marion.

Apparently, the Mancunian funny man lived in the area before his death in 1993. He famously once remarked: "It's so posh in Lytham St Anne's, when we eat cod and chips, we wear a yachting cap."

But walls of pin-sharp close-ups of the gurning comic aren't to everyone's taste, and something told us it was time to find a cosy little tearoom and seek consolation in a hot drink and big piece of cake.

Whether Lytham qualifies as a seaside resort at all is debateable. Unlike St Anne's, there is no beach to speak of. Instead, the promenade area, known as The Green, is laid out with lawns, and the panoramic views are over the Ribble estuary to the east, rather than the Irish Sea.

On the right day, this could be a lovely spot to soak up the sun, or enjoy a picnic, under the impressive windmill. Unluckily, during our visit, a stiff breeze cut short our stroll. No wonder they built a windmill here.

Instead, we opted to flee the chill and explore Lytham's charming shopping area, with its smart boutiques and antiques shops. Marion noted how few major chain stores there were in the town, and the variety of family-run businesses certainly add to the resort's charm. A bit like Harrogate, only by the sea.

Our base for the weekend was the Ribby Hall Holiday Village, at nearby Wrea Green, and we were glad to have such warm and comfortable accommodation. Many of the cottages here were refurbished before the start of the season, and ours - a two double-bedroomed Iris - was a superb example.

It boasted a new kitchen and bathrooms, with smart and modern fittings, up-to-the-minute décor and carpets, and stylish furniture, including a corner-style sofa in brown leather our daughter, Bethany, would love to have taken home with her. Throw in the flat-screen HD TV and it was heaven away from home for a 12-year-old.

Everything in our cottage oozed quality, which was a huge bonus given the typical British weather, which forced us to spend more time inside than we might have done.

The warm and welcoming indoor pools proved our main refuge, but for the more sporty there are outdoor and indoor play areas, a 25ft climbing wall, a nine-hole golf course and mini-golf, as well as tennis, crown green bowls and five fishing ponds. Badminton and squash, table tennis and pool and a superbly-equipped gym mean there's something for all ages and energy levels. Ribby Hall also boasts its own stables, with lead rein pony rides for younger children.

This pretty corner of the Lancashire coast may be largely unknown and unspoilt, but with fast motorway access from York, it has to be near the top of anyone's list for a relaxing short break.

For information about Lytham, phone the Lancashire Tourist Board on 01257 226600. For details about Ribby Hall Holiday Village, phone 0800 085 1717 or visit www.ribbyhall.co.uk